What is microneedling and how does it benefit the skin?  

Microneedling, sometimes called collagen induction therapy, is a rejuvenating treatment using tiny needles the size of hairs to create microchannels in skin which stimulate fibroblasts to produce new collagen and elastin cells. This increases the density and tone of the skin while reducing visible signs of aging. These new cells move to the surface of the skin filling out fine lines and wrinkles naturally. This treatment also enhances circulation and blood flow which can benefit the clarity, complexion and overall health of the skin and underlying tissue. If there is hyperpigmentation it can help by breaking up the discoloration in the surface of the skin and evening the skin town whether it be melasma or post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Microneedling also works wonders on scars and stretch marks. It can be transformational for people who have atrophic acne scarring where there is volume loss as it can regenerate tissue and restore the skins texture.

What happens during treatment and how long does it take to see the benefits? 

The skin is double cleansed and prepared for treatment. There is an option to use numbing cream if desired for an entirely painless experience. Most clients tolerate it just fine without and prefer not to use it.  I provide acupuncture during the session to support relaxation and enhance the overall experience. A sterile, single use needle cartridge containing 16 needles is used to make a series of microchannels at varying depths from .25mm to 1.5mm in the skin. The depth depends on the area being treated and the thickness of the skin. It takes under 30 minutes to treat the entire face. A medical-grade serum is used to lubricate the needles and condition the skin during the treatment. Immediately after microneedling a biocellulose repair mask is applied for 20 minutes to accelerate healing and boost results. This treatment creates a micro injury to the skin, causing a chain of biochemical reactions that promote healing and regeneration. It is important to allow the natural inflammatory process to occur without mitigating any part of it while providing the skin with what it needs to optimally heal and rejuvenate. Improvements in the complexion can be seen immediately after treatment as there is an instant increase in the circulation of vital substances in the skin. Results on a cellular level develop as early as 1 month and continue to develop several months after the initial treatment. Maximum results are achieved after 4-6 treatments done over the course of 6 months. Proper nutrition, lifestyle and skincare all help enhance the effects and results of microneedling and should be used to support the skin.

How should one take care of their skin after treatment? 

The microchannels in the skin stay open for 4 hours after treatment so you have to wait to wash or touch the skin for at least that long. It’s best to book an afternoon or evening appointment and allow the skin to rest and recover overnight with the serum used in treatment and wait to wash the skin until the following morning if possible. The skin is usually a little pink, sometimes red and irritated after treatment, a similar look and feel to a sunburn. It is important to stay hydrated and keep the skin moisturized and protected from the elements. Drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol and caffeine, use plenty of soothing moisturizer and a mineral based SPF. Avoid make up and sweating for at least 24 hours after treatment, and if possible until skin has returned to normal. There are some make-ups formulated for post-procedure skin if absolutely necessary but it is better to allow it the time and space to breathe and restore. Stay out of direct sunlight, wind and extreme temperatures while skin is still sensitive. For the following week after microneedling it is recommended to only use gentle cleanser and moisturizer with no actives or exfoliants like aha, bha, retinols, acids, enzymes, niacinamide etc. I like to use a soothing spritz like the VAYU illuminating toning mist to relieve tightness and soothe my skin as needed in the days following treatment. You can also use pure aloe vera or biocellulose repair masks as long as the ingredients are safe and do not contain harsh ingredients or actives. Your provider should have insight into what products are safe and recommended for aftercare specific to your skin type and treatment goals.

What’s the biggest misconception about microneedling, and what would you want someone considering it to know? 

Microneedling is actually a very ancient therapy and has been practiced for thousands of years to beautify the skin and also promote healing. It is based on a tool called the 7 star plum blossom hammer. As a cosmetic treatment, it provides a safe, natural way to rejuvenate skin and prevent aging that is remarkably effective and results driven. As a preventative treatment it rivals conventional methods due to its ability to reverse visible signs of aging while being entirely natural and skin friendly. Studies have shown it increases collagen produced by skin cells by up to 400%. By supporting skin on a cellular level it ultimately benefits the holistic health of not just the dermis but the entire body. Conventional beauty treatments like injectables often create excess damage and injury to the skin, introduce toxic substances to the tissue and create a metabolic burden for our bodies to process. They come with serious risks and side effects that most people are not aware of like the development of antibodies, skin sagging, muscle atrophy and neurological problems. Microneedling is truly a superior option not just because it is clinically safe but also because it works with, not against the skin, is more cost effective and yields better long term results.

Who is microneedling best suited for? Are there any skin types that should avoid it? 

Microneedling is safe for healthy adults of all ages and skin types. There are some pre-existing health conditions that may prevent someone from being a candidate such as diabetes, severe (auto) immune conditions, bleeding and blood pressure disorders or a history of keloids. Some conditions like rosacea or acne can’t be treated directly but benefit greatly from having the adjacent healthy skin treated as it serves to vent inflammation and encourages healing. People with darker skin tones and more prone to hyperpigmentation should take precaution and start treatment conservatively using shallower needle depths. Always be cleared and treated by an experienced, licensed medical professional and strictly follow their guidelines for before and aftercare. If you are using retinol or other prescription topicals it is recommended to discontinue them 1-2 weeks before microneedling and maintain a gentle, non active skincare routine in the week leading up to treatment. Everyone’s skin is different and reactions vary. Microneedling is gentle in nature and can be adapted to best suit the nuances of your skin type and goals for treatment.

For aftercare, how do natural, toxin-free formulations support and enhance the skin’s healing process, especially when the skin is in its most vulnerable state?

The days and weeks following treatment is an important time to support the skin with the right nourishment and protection. Using clean, toxin free formulations ensures the body can direct all of its resources to healing without mitigating or metabolizing unnecessary chemicals. Conventional skincare contains endocrine disrupting parabens and phthalates, formaldehyde-releasing fragrance and other carcinogenic substances like petroleum-by-products that clog the skin and damage its barrier which is very vulnerable right after microneedling. 

Supporting the skin's recovery process in the days, weeks and months after treatment is essential to maximizing the rejuvenation potential of collagen induction therapy. Choose products that contain bioavailable ingredients that promote collagen production, nourish the skin, support the barrier and seal in moisture. I like using the PRANA face oil because of the combination of healing potent ingredients found in the formula. You can further support your skin with diet and lifestyle by reducing sugar and processed foods, avoiding alcohol and caffeine, drinking plenty of (lemon) water and hydrating with antioxidant rich foods like fruits and vegetables.

What would you say to someone who is curious about trying microneedling but feels uncertain or hesitant? How might you reassure them and guide them toward making an informed decision? 

If you are curious to try it but feel apprehensive I would recommend discussing it with a licensed practitioner who can answer questions and provide more information about the process. It is important you feel confident and trust the person performing the microneedling. Identify which aspect(s) of the treatment is(are) cause for concern and communicate about it(them). See if there is a solution or way to create comfortability in the process, ie more information, clarification, an alternative or adaptation. It is important to note that microneedling practitioners vary state by state but generally dermatologists and acupuncturists can perform this treatment, some states allow estheticians as well. Find a practitioner that is qualified, experienced and practices in a way that prioritizes patient care and comfort.

Meet Dr. Thalia Kazakos L.Ac